When I was a boy, amusement parks were smaller and simpler
than they are today. The rides may not have subjected you to as many G forces
but they were thrilling none the less. They were bumpier, louder, and more raw.
You could smell the grease in the gears and the ozone created by electrical
arcs in the big unshielded motors.
One of my favorites, aside from the wooden
coasters, was the Tumble Bug. It was manufactured by Traver Engineering and its
successor, R. E. Chambers of Beaver Falls, PA, from 1925 until the mid-1950’s
and could be found in amusements parks across the nation, indeed, around the
world.
The name varied from park to park – Tumble Bug, Turtle Ride,
or just the Bug. It consisted of five or six cars shaped like turtles, some
versions even had metallic heads and tails. The shell was hollowed out to allow
riders to sit inside on a circular bench and there was a chrome wheel mounted
like a horizontal steering wheel in the center to hang on to. These cars rode
around an undulating circular monorail. They were held to the track by spokes
radiating from a post at the center of the ride.
One of the unique aspects of the Tumble Bug was that it
needed a little coaxing to get rolling out of the station. The operator,
usually a teenager not much older than the riders, would start the train moving
slowly forward until it stalled on the first hill. Then he would throw the
motors into reverse to back the train through the station until it stalled on
the hill behind it. Again he would throw the motors into forward and this time
the train would almost make it over the hill, at least the first turtle would.
One more back up and we were ready to rock and roll.
The train of turtles then went around the track, three hills
in all, raced through the station and around again. That’s it. Even so, you got
tossed around pretty good and if you didn’t hang on, you could find yourself
halfway out the opening where you get in and out of the car. They didn’t have
safety restraints or legal departments in those days. We kids used to stand in
line for 20 minutes to go around a circle for 3 minutes and we loved every
second of it. As soon as the ride ended, we would rush down the exit ramp,
turn, and get right back on line to ride again.
There are only two operating Tumble Bugs left in the world
and they are both in western Pennsylvania – one in Kennywood Park and one in a
little park on Conneaut Lake. I made a pilgrimage to the latter to ride the
Tumble Bug.
I had been to Conneaut Lake Park once before, in my
twenties. I was working at a state psychiatric hospital in Pittsburgh at the
time and several of the social workers arranged a weekend trip for some of our
more “presentable” patients. The park was a magical place reminding me of West
View Park, north of Pittsburgh, where my school district held its annual
picnic. It was a busy, happy place with lots of excited kids and adults rushing
from ride to ride, spilling cotton candy along the way, punctuated with the
shrieks from riders on the Blue Streak coaster as it thundered overhead. There
were long lines for many of the popular rides, including the Tumble Bug.
When I began planning the itinerary for my three-month RV
road trip, there were two places that I absolutely had to go: Key West to see
Dominique Lefort and his performing house cats and Conneaut Lake Park to ride
the Tumble Bug. I arrived on a Saturday afternoon in June and while I set up
the motor home in Camperland (which was once Fantasy Forest) I was thrilled to
hear the unmistakable rattle of the anti-rollback safety ratchets on the wooden
roller coaster across the street. I thought it was odd that I didn’t hear it
again for almost 15 minutes, but at least it was running and I would soon be
inside the park.
Time has been unkind to Conneaut. The park has limped along
for the past decade, always on the verge of closing, torn apart by warring
factions on its board, and generally ignored by today’s thrill seekers who
prefer super parks like Cedar Point which is only three hours away. The parking
lot was nearly empty, the paint is peeling from the signs which proudly
proclaim “Since 1892”. There were no staff at the entrance, but the gates were
open. There is no admittance charge.
As you enter the sweeping curve of the
walkway, the first ride you pass isn’t even a ride. It’s just a few crumbling
concrete footers, and a circular picket fence. Next to it is an abandoned
Tilt-a-Whirl with trees growing up through the track. The park appeared nearly
empty.
Further along were several working rides which were sitting
idle due to lack of customers. I rounded another curve and there it was – the
Tumble Bug! And it was open for business. I almost ran over to it, except my
knees don’t allow me to run anymore. I watched as it started forward and
stalled on the first hill. It rocked back and forth, as it always has, until it
had worked up enough momentum to get out of the station and on its way – all
two passengers shrieking in delight. It sounded more metallic, more strained,
than I remembered but, after all, I was witnessing an eighty-year old
mechanical device that had somehow been kept patched and cobbled together
enough to still operate.
After buying tickets at the kiosk, I returned to ride the
beast myself. As it turned out, I was the only rider and the young man at the
controls gave me an extra-long ride, too long actually. It got boring in a
hurry. But who cares? I was on the Tumble Bug. I was the only one on the Tumble
Bug on a perfect summer day, one of the only two such rides in the world.
Where were the people?
I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the park, or
what was left of it. The Pavilion had burned to the ground several years ago;
the midway was a sad glimpse of a forgotten past. The carousel, which was a
classical beauty, had one dad and his daughter riding. About the only place
that had a crowd was a loud beach bar on the lake that was overrun with bikers.
So I decided to brave the Blue Streak. It’s an out and back
wooden coaster built in 1937 and designed by Ed
Vettel, who also designed the Big Dips at West View Park. I had the
naïve idea that I would shoot video with my cell phone as I hurdled along the
track. Instead I hung onto my phone desperately with one hand, while I kept my
other hand over my eyes, not because I didn’t want to see the ride, but because
I had lost my hat on the first hill and I didn’t want to lose my sunglasses as
well. That left me with no hands to hold on. It was the ride from hell. Strange
wailing moans came from somewhere, and since I was the only person on the
coaster, they must have been coming from me.
As I left the park, I walked past the Tumble Bug one last
time. It was closed. A maintenance truck was parked in front and several
workers were huddled over the train. I asked the operator what happened. He
told me that the hydraulic brakes had sprung a leak and that the ride would be
out of commission for the rest of the day, maybe all weekend. (Maybe forever, I
thought.)
West View Park closed decades ago and was bulldozed to make
way for a shopping mall. I have a feeling Conneaut may not be around much
longer either. Why does that make me sad? Is it true that you can never really
go back?